ColourPop x Harry Potter Collection… Yer a Disappointment, ColourPop

ColourPop has made the deeply upsetting decision to release a collection in collaboration with Harry Potter in the year of 2022, years after its creator and author JK Rowling has made comments/written things that indicate that she is transphobic, racist, anti-Semitic, ableist, appropriative, and fatphobic (and probably some other -ists at this point) and that she will use her platform, her money, her power, and her influence to spew forth her vile rhetoric.

For those who have managed to not have heard about JK Rowling’s commitment to anti-trans “radical” feminism, resulting in her often being called a TERF (Trans-Exclusionary Radical Feminist), and in circles that may support JK Rowling’s beliefs, you may see the term “gender critical” feminist floating around, I’ll briefly recap and provide links to other outlets that have covered previously. You can jump to this recap first before reading on, whether you need a refresher or don’t know about it at all yet.

There are a lot of concerned customers who expressed similar feelings of disappointment, betrayal, and just general confusion how a brand that claims to support the LGBTQIA+ community would then release this collection. Here is ColourPop’s response to one of the many comments:

Thank you for your comment. It is our continued commitment at ColourPop to always foster a community of acceptance, love, inclusivity and support. This release is our most highly requested (it has been asked for almost weekly by our community!) and as you know, we are here to create magic for you all by listening, and responding to, what our community dreams of. We are also here to support and uplift this community.

Acceptance, inclusivity, and love for all is our biggest priority and that will never change. We are releasing this collection to bring the magic of the Wizarding World to everyone – and like everything we do, it was designed with love, for all. We will always support the LGBTQIA communities through all avenues available to us and will continue to make donations to organizations and charities while remaining committed to providing a platform for LGBTQIA community members via paid partnerships and more. — Source: ColourPop’s Instagram

I am reminded a lot of how MAC x Rodarte’s collection unraveled. MAC initially issued a soft statement and apology due to the initial round of backlash, which then ratcheted up to committing to donate $100K and renaming the products, and then they ended up pulling the entire collection from being released due to continued backlash.

Here, ColourPop has offered what feels like a fluffy bit of nothing that doesn’t truly address the concerns and then manages to use other customers as shields by putting the “blame” of this collection on them for requesting it so highly. Their reply doesn’t even really acknowledge the core issue (the series’ author’s anti-trans activism).

If “Acceptance, inclusivity, and love for all is [their] biggest priority and that will never change,” then this collection doesn’t live up to those values at all. It actively flies in the face of what ColourPop says they stand for. JK Rowling has forever tarnished the world of Harry Potter; as the creator but also someone who financially benefits from the franchise, and is then using her financial means to support ways to push her transphobic views.

ColourPop could have just as readily created a magic and wizard-inspired collection, neither of which are exclusive to Harry Potter, without needing it to be in collaboration with any property or franchise, and more obviously, there are other series that are set in magical worlds out there. ColourPop can say the right thing like, “We will always support the LGBTQIA communities through all avenues available to us,” and then dismiss the many comments (which seemed to outnumber the ones in support of the collection, followed by critical comments garnering 100s of likes) by the LGBTQIA+ community and its allies. You just can’t have it both ways.

I feel like if ColourPop truly wanted to show that they value all of their customers with full support, love, and acceptance, they would not have greenlit this collection in the first place. Some might argue that donating all profits would salvage the disappointing decision, but it is merely a small, saving-face step in light of backlash. The best case that I can see would be donating would-be profits or some explicit number to organizations actively supporting trans people, no longer releasing the collection, and an actual apology acknowledging their failure to live up to self-stated core values.

Similarly, this collection reminded me of the NARS x Guy Bourdin collection, which was a collection that made me deeply uncomfortable and I ended up writing a lengthy commentary on why I decided not to review it but still provided swatches (and dupes). This was also an area where some saw things through more of an artistic lens, and with the Harry Potter fandom, obviously many people have worked through or may still be working through coming to terms with just how much JK Rowling has ruined what was a big part of childhood for many folks.

Whether one can still enjoy the art of a person who has made clear their views or character are at odds with your own values and character is a debate for another time, but at a minimum, we have to acknowledge the flaws of the artist when discussing, engaging, or otherwise supporting in their art. Especially in this instance where the artist/creator wields an extraordinary level of wealth, power, and access to utilizing those resources for harm.

In the spirit of Harry Potter, I say to ColourPop, “We must all face the choice between what is right and what is easy,” because, “It is our choices, ColourPop, that show what we truly are, far more than our abilities.” After all, “It matters not what someone is born, but what they grow to be.”

My Personal Commitment

I will not be reviewing or swatching the ColourPop x Harry Potter collection. I will also donate any commission earned from the use of my code/links on Harry Potter collection items to the Trevor Project.

Update 9/12, 8:15AM PT: As promised, I have donated all commission I’ve earned from sales of the ColourPop x Harry Potter collection to the Trevor Project. From 9/8 to 9/11/2022, commission earned was $2,198.40. I donated this amount and then opted to cover the processing fees associated, which is why the total amount is $2,242.37. Please see below for a screenshot of my receipt after donating online.

I will do another calculation of any commission earned after the close of this month (or any subsequent months, so long as it is being sold) as I expect the bulk of sales have already occurred.

The collection seems to be selling quite slowly, especially for the “most highly requested” collaboration. As it should. Interestingly enough, though, this is more commission than I’d normally see for a collab launch, so I think there were many people trying to offset their purchases by using a code that was going to donate as a few other IG accounts told their followers to use my code!

JK Rowling is Anti-Trans: A Primer

GLAAD’s Accountability Project has an ongoing profile for JK Rowling that keeps track of “anti-LGBTQ rhetoric and discriminatory actions.” Vox published a timeline of JK Rowling’s transphobia, which is a good starting place, followed by a very deep dive into how the Wizarding World has failed to improve on expanding and improving its inclusivity over and over again as more facts have come to light or additional text written.

JK Rowling has a massive Twitter following and routinely engages with critics who have nowhere near the power she wields. There were inklings of the transphobic rhetoric to come, but it really came across in a tweet from December 2019, then followed up by another transphobic tweet in June 2020, which was immediately followed by a long essay that doubled-, tripled-, and quadrupled-downed on being anti-trans. Her essay was rife with anti-trans dog whistles (this is an excellent takedown of the essay). She has since published new novels (outside of the Harry Potter world) that continue to espouse her transphobic views (and the newest one, promoted in August of this year, is apparently ablelist, too).

Major stars from the Harry Potter movie franchise, like Daniel Radcliffe, swiftly spoke out and condemned JK Rowling’s anti-trans tweets. When HBO aired a retrospective to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the first film’s release, JK Rowling was only featured in archived content but did not appear otherwise in this special.

As Vox noted, TERFs “oppose the self-definition of trans people” at its core, and in their worldview, this results in TERFs treating “trans women as predators, trans men as victims of the patriarchy,” and often erasing or mocking non-binary people.

Jay Hulme, who is a transgender performance poet, speaker, and educator, wrote on trans men: “There is another aspect to the way transphobes treat trans men which is altogether more uncomfortable, and that is what I like to call the “butch lesbian fallacy” … There is an idea, in transphobic circles, that trans men are all confused butch lesbians,” and Hulme expands on this further (well-worth reading the entire post), “They speak of trans men as a “loss”, as if they were sexually entitled to us, and as if they have been wronged by us becoming sexually unavailable to them through self awareness, acceptance, and transition … At the heart of all of this is a desire among transphobes to control trans men. They obsess over our surgeries, our ages, and our presentations. The prospect of a trans man exercising his right to bodily autonomy horrifies them.”

The transgender community needs our collective support as the percentages of transgender individuals who have seriously considered suicide in the past year remains high (48% and higher) and have had a lack of access to mental healthcare (when over 71% of transgender women and men experience symptoms of anxiety) are high. When transgender individuals feel supported and affirmed, they have lower rates of attempting suicide. All statistics are from The Trevor Project’s 2022 survey.

A look into Bite Beauty's rebrand – is anything going right?
Bite Beauty Daycation Whipped Blush

Once upon a time, Bite Beauty was a brand that I looked forward to reviewing, and while their line-up was more limited in their offerings, they tended to excel at what they did offer. They were known for their lip products, from lipstick to lip balm to lip pencils. Now, I don’t know what they’re known for, and there are so few readers who seem to enjoy their newer offerings. Their newer product offerings seem to have often alienated previous fans of the brand, while they haven’t seemed to be able to capture a new set of fans to replacement. Bite Beauty announced the discontinuation of their entire range in September 2019, and they had everything cleared out by late November 2019 with the first release launched in January 2020. Let’s take a look at how that’s gone down…

Sales, Sales, Sales

Now, the larger online beauty community that is filled with enthusiasts and less casual beauty fans, so it can’t be the only indicator of a brand’s success or lack thereof, but Bite’s reformulated/newer launches have routinely been on sale for 50% off and seem like they’re being discontinued because they stay on sale.

For example, the Changemaker foundation and powder have been on sale for awhile, and the powder is down to only four shades (from eight originally) at Sephora, which is a tell-tale sign of something being discontinued (it’s like pulling teeth to get a brand to admit to a product discontinuation, I swear!). The foundation still has the majority of shades in stock and any shades that are out of stock haven’t been pulled yet, and the liquid foundation did seem to garner mostly favorable reviews. The better-performing Power Move Creamy Matte Lip Crayons have been marked down to 50% for months and months.

They never previously ran so many sales, and while products occasionally went on sale or 50% off, they were typically when discontinued or limited edition products on their way out. If the products were selling well, it’s hard to see the rationale in offering them at such a steep discount so often or on an ongoing basis.

Timing Issues

After Bite Beauty cleared out their remaining inventory at 75% off, we waited to see how it would all turn out. I know I wasn’t alone being caught off-guard when the first products they launched were complexion in January 2020. (They also launched their Power Move Lip Crayons, which I quite liked, and their Lip Masks, which I didn’t like and lacked lanolin and ended up being less effective for some who had found it to be holy grail previously.)

It made sense for Bite Beauty to eventually expand beyond lip products, but I think it made some scratch their heads a bit as the first release given how famous they were for their Amuse Bouche Lipsticks, Lip Masks, and Lip Pencils in particular. Instead of the relaunch being super excited, it just left some wondering “but what about the lipsticks?” So, I, like many others, waited, and then waited some more, to finally see the grand replacement of Amuse Bouche, which ended up being the Power Move Soft Matte that didn’t launch until July 2021. It was almost two years since they had discontinued Amuse Bouche, and then it wasn’t even a replacement at all!

For some brands, there have been increasing delays and roadblocks due to the impact on supply chains since last March 2020, but Bite’s rebrand was announced in September 2019 and inventory cleared out by end of November 2019, so it doesn’t seem like they should have had any supply chain/launching issues for their initial launches at all.

Formula Flops

They aren’t the only brand that has tweaked or relaunched products to be vegan, and it is becoming more popular to do. First and foremost, Sephora allows you to indicate your preference for vegan products, and there are over 1,000 to choose from. It’s just important for a brand to make sure that a reformulation still lives up to the brand’s reputation, but when Bite Beauty brought back the beloved, much-missed Agave Lip Balm, the reviews came in furious and harsh.

Part of the reason was the removal of lanolin, which is a particularly effective ingredient (but animal-derived, as comes from sheep’s wool) so for some, it was the inclusion of lanolin doing the heavy-lifting and however Bite reformulated didn’t cut it for past fans. Oddly, Bite didn’t see fit to improve the packaging of the lip balm, as people had issues with the end coming undone in the past and still have that issue with the current version. Bite even released a twist-up version, which was reviewed even more poorly (just over 2-stars).

That being said, Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask doesn’t have any animal-derived ingredients, and is a pretty popular product, so it could have found fans but seemed to more of a miss than a hit for many who tried it. Fenty’s Gloss Bomb is also vegan and a staple for many who like hydrating and glossy products. Tower 28 ShineOn Jelly Lip Gloss is also a popular lip product that is vegan.

Their Daycation Whipped Blush was both a product and packaging fail, and like most of what they’ve done in the last couple of years, puzzled me to no end. They had Multisticks that were popular enough (my experience was they didn’t work well on my eyes but were decent as cheek/lip products but they were quite loved by others) in convenient, twist-up sticks. Fenty Cheeks Out Cream Blush is vegan and is a fantastic cream-based formula… so it can be done.

Not So Amused Bouche

Finally, when lipsticks–much requested and begged for–finally relaunched, the formula wasn’t just vegan but offered a totally different feel, texture, wear, and shade range. The replacement formula, Power Move Soft Matte, is thin, somewhat clingy, matte, and heavier on silicones; and frankly, it was one of the worse-performing silicone-type matte formulas I’ve come across. There are high-quality vegan lipstick formulas, like NARS Lipstick, Natasha Denona I Need a Nude Lipstick, and Urban Decay Lipstick that are creamier, more emollient, and closer to the Amuse Bouche formula (there are also several vegan, silicone-like matte formulas).

The Power Move Soft Matte formula went for a very matte (as opposed to luminous cream, which wasn’t everyone’s favorite as some found it higher maintenance), they released significantly less shades that were all in all… your typical, soft and muted neutral shades, when they were known for a more extensive offering that even included navy green and inky green. They even say “our mission is to make clean beauty less…beige” and talk about having “bold, look-at-me-now color.”

The last iteration of the Amuse Bouche Lipstick range had 40ish shades available, while the launch of their “replacement” released 20 shades.  The lack of Lip Pencils remains a mystery, as vegan options already exist from competitors, and it would have made sense for them to launch alongside the lipsticks (or at any point since); for example one of the more popular high-end formulas is Charlotte Tilbury’s Lip Cheat, which has been vegan exists along with Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-On Lip Pencils.

There is room for a matte finish from Bite, but all matte and only matte in their return to lipstick–after such a long, long wait–was anticlimactic for those who loved Amuse Bouche. Like if I had wanted a matte lipstick, I wouldn’t care about a return of Amuse Bouche since it had a very creamy finish!

By the by, has anyone else noticed that they’ve kept their Amuse Bouche (or -esque) formula in their Lip Labs? It just seems odd to offer that in-store when they’ve made a big point to be vegan!

Product Ratings Post-Rebrand

Product Ratings Pre-Rebrand

What’s in Bite Beauty’s future?

I hope we’ll see improvements in 2022 and 2023; they have been largely silent with respect to new product launches since summer 2021 with their matte lipstick launch. It’s possible they had other launches planned that are now facing delays that have become commonplace due to the past two years of disruption to supply chains.  The brand feels like it’s lost their identity, which may be partially due to the rebrand but also due to increased competition in the “clean beauty” (sigh, I loathe that term!) space. Their reputation for high-quality products has also suffered, which can be tough to come back from as people become more hesitant about new launches due to past experiences.

Looking through their social media, a lot of fans are wondering if certain product are being discontinued, often remarking about products being 50% off., but there are no responses from the brand over the last few months when asked, so we can only speculate… but steep discounts are rarely a good sign, and being often or continuously on sale, also a red flag. It can also be a trap for the brand that ultimately results in consumers becoming less likely to pay full price when they know they can wait a month for a discount (this is an issue that I’ve seen occur with Pat McGrath and Urban Decay in the last few years as well).

Have you found any new favorites from Bite’s relaunches? Have you become a bigger fan of the brand or have moved on?

Bite Beauty Daycation Whipped Blush  

Bite Beauty Daycation Whipped Blush  

Bite Beauty Daycation Whipped Blush  

Bite Beauty Daycation Whipped Blush